A First Taste of La Paz: Where to Eat, Drink, and Discover Baja’s Best Food

Alejandro had been shoveling gravel into the back of a dented truck all morning. This was back in August when it was really hot. Sun high, air thick with construction dust hanging. I was in the breezeway, researching real estate in La Paz and refrigerators available at the local Home Depot (big selection, actually), deciding to skip the siesta in favor of an espresso. Yes, in the midst of all this renovation I have an espresso machine. I’m not some sort of animal. I stuck my head through a hole in my living room wall and asked if he’d like one. He paused, wiped his hands, and nodded.

When I handed him the cup, he turned it slowly in his palms, inspecting it the way someone inspects produce at the market. One sip, and he smiled. “Chiapas,” he said. He was right. I had only met him that morning when he showed up to work for the day, hired by my contractor. He leaned on his shovel, tiny cup in a dusty hand, and told me about his family’s farm there, his favorite roast. Suggested a couple of regions I should try. Said if he was working at my place again, he’d bring me some beans from his family’s place. He tilted the cup back a final time, passed it back, nodded gracias once more, and resumed his work.

I want to be honest, this post scared me. I’ve been in the restaurant business my whole life. I’ve trained with the winemakers of many great California wineries. I once spent a week touring and staying at vineyards around Napa and Sonoma for work. I’ve worked at some really great restaurants, and when I owned my own, it ended up winning a few awards. But this post scares me.

See, here in Mexico, food isn’t just part of the culture, it is the culture. Pride here isn’t loud; it’s lived. Every abuela, street vendor, and chef seems to carry generations of knowledge in their hands. And here I am, thinking I can even begin to talk about food in a place like this. It’s humbling. Who the hell am I to weigh in on what’s great in La Paz? The more I tried to write, the clearer it became that there’s too much good here for one post, or even ten. But here goes anyway.

First things first: if you’re reading this, I want you to know what I’m aiming for with this blog. If you’re coming down for a week or two, chase the seafood. Mariscos. Everywhere. Iguana’s, right on the sidewalk. Toro Guero, Los Plebes, sunset at El Molinito, or a stop at Tesoro Marino on the drive to Todos Santos. Eat birria, drink anything with junk on the rim, don’t order margaritas, order cantaritos, micheladas, jamaica, and pepino. Get jates (local hot dogs) on the corner and find tamales in front of Chedraui Centro after 7 p.m. Here’s a tip: if you see a big red Coca-Cola banner with block white letters, a tent, and a crowd eating in the mid-afternoon, pull over. You’re in the right place.

I wrote this because I keep finding these gems, especially the places that remind those of us living here or staying longer that there’s always more to discover. Also, we’re renovating our house. A lot of the time, the kitchen just isn’t functioning yet. So we’re eating out. A lot. Not out of indulgence but survival, and it’s been the best excuse to learn this city one plate at a time.

So, where have we been eating? I loved Oso. It’s small, but the food is dialed, delicious, and inspired. The night I was there, it was all locals. The beef carpaccio was a revelation, and a smoked fish dip that was light and rich at the same time. I love the Mexican wines poured at Salud and at Sonset. Chris, the proprietor at Salud, is a wealth of knowledge and a super-great host. I love watching the sunset and the people from most anywhere on the Malecón, but usually wander up the hill for dinner. La Coyota is a social hub at the corner of Domínguez and Constitución, with favorite nightspots like Patio Domínguez and La Miserable, as well as Asian flavors at Tiger Club, where the cornflake-fried chicken wrapped in lettuce leaf is incredible. Down the street you’ll see the super-hip Azotea Rooftop giving Tulum vibes, where I take friends from big trendy cities. Although to be fair, I take them to El Buen Bar first; they’re some of the best bartenders around, and the pizza is great too. Speaking of rooftops, the bar at Sies Doce is usually hopping as the evening gets going.

Noelle and I love to have a small plate at several places when we’re out, so once we have a little snack somewhere on Domínguez, we wander over a street to Francisco Madero, stop at Biznaga, or find the stairs down the alley next to Paradiso Café to enter the surprising space at Mei Mei for dan dan noodles.

Out of the downtown core, El Mesquite is a simple palapa serving a great steak without making you feel like you’ll need a second mortgage. Last week we played cards while rolling tender beef arrachera in handmade tortillas at old-school Asadero Rancho Viejo. And it’s small and closes early, but check out D’Thai over here in our neighborhood soon too.

And yes, seafood. It's what we came for, right? It became clear right away that everyone living here has a favorite sushi spot. So many are really creative and putting out delicious meals. I like the one closest to our house, Zamashi (there’s more than one in town). Please tell me your favorites.

We had a wonderful experience at San Siro a couple of weeks ago—elegant, well-prepared pastas and one of the best octopus carpaccio dishes I’ve had. It’s a beautiful space and the service was fantastic.

So, I am certain I forgot things. I needed to just write, avoiding analysis paralysis. And obviously I already need to write another. So, shoot me a note at [email protected] and remind me how much I love NIM, Kapok, Oyster House, and stopping at Mohito LPZ. And if you’re thinking about moving down, reach out. Let’s grab lunch or, as always, meet for coffee. If the kitchen is finished I might even make you an espresso here at our place. Oh, and I get my beans at Café La Choya.
Let's talk soon!

Chris

I work with Dream Baja Realty helping people trade the “maybe someday” and “what-ifs” for “what’s next” and "Yes, And..." right here in La Paz and across Baja California Sur. If you’ve been wondering what it really takes to make the move, I’ll walk you through it step by step. You’ll know how to buy safely, which neighborhoods fit your life, and what living here actually feels like day to day.
Hasta Pronto!

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Ask me anything—neighborhoods, who can help with visas, the best tacos al gobernador in town. Better yet, let’s grab coffee when you’re here—and if the kitchen’s finally finished, I’ll make the espresso.